Day 30: Canar to Bubion 12k

I had quite a job talking Gill into driving back to Canar this morning but she found it less alarming the second time. Quite a relief, I really didn’t fancy walking up!

So with Chica and Merlin in tow, we set off into the hills shortly to meet up with a German chap just packing away his sleeping bag. He was on the GR7 too so we hooked up for the day. After a while I overcame my misanthropy and enjoyed the company.

The path continued along the hillside giving more magnificent views to the south including a waterfall hundreds of feet high, plunging into a bowl it had created below. We passed a sign to a Buddhist retreat – not hard to see why this beautiful location was chosen.

In contrast, the next village of Soportujar is infamous, apparently, as a home of witchcraft. The legend is that any child who wandered outside of the village on their own would be kidnapped by the local witches and taken to the cave of The Eye of the Witch. There they would dispatched and their fat sold to the local dairy to be turned into milk, cream and cheese. A good way of keeping the kids from straying!

I thought this was just a piece of tourist fodder (it reminded me of Wookey Hole Caves at home) but when we approached the bronze statue of the witch guarding the cave Chica behaved very oddly; refusing to go anywhere near and growling at her, hackles raised. No way could she be persuaded to go near. Maybe there’s something in it, after all.

As it started to get quite chilly, we reached Pampaneria. This is a real tourist magnet but still a very attractive village with lovely little back alleys. Bubion is immediately above so a stiff climb finished our walk and I said goodbye to my companion as he found somewhere to stay for the night. He was finding the camping a bit chilly, I think.

Gill turned up and we drove a couple of kilometres to the next village where we had discovered there was a restaurant offering Indian food. After two months here and no sign of a curry house this was a real treat. The food was excellent (if a little pricey), freshly cooked and promptly served. A delicious end to the day!

Published by gilliwolfe

Tom's partner and Chica's mum. And support team (with the other two dogs) for the trip.

3 thoughts on “Day 30: Canar to Bubion 12k

  1. Don’t you just love the Alpujarras? Every village is a delight. Clinging to the hillsides with those crazy chimneys – always reminds me of Himalayan villages. I suppose mountain villages the world over have something in common.
    It was whilst trekking in this area years ago that I stumbled across the GR7.
    Enjoy.

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    1. Yes, it is beautiful, though very touristy these days even at this time of year. Meeting the tour coaches on those mountain roads is scarey. I guess it helps to sustain the rural economy though.

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